The trill in your fingers
Stage 3 already taught you to read a trill — which note, whether it starts on the principal note or the one above, whether it needs an accidental. This is the physical motion itself: what the finger actually does, and how it gets fast without getting tense.
A small hammer, not a squeeze
The motion comes from the base knuckle — where the finger meets the hand — not the middle joint. Using the middle joint "gets stuck" and can't sustain speed; the base-knuckle motion is closer to a small hammer tapping the string, lift and drop, over and over.
How to play it
Lift the 2nd finger from its base knuckle, not the middle joint. Keep the motion small and relaxed — a tense hand caps your speed long before your finger muscles do.
Relaxation is the speed secret, not force
Tension anywhere — hand, wrist, arm — caps how fast a trill can go, more than raw finger strength ever will. Build speed with rhythmic cells: start at a slow, even tempo (around 50 BPM per note is a common starting point), then move the same alternation to eighths, then sixteenths, always with a metronome, always staying even rather than rushing into a blur. Practise without the bow first — single taps, then groups of two to four, then a sustained trill — so the finger motion is secure before the bow's timing joins in.
Every adjacent pair, every string
A real trill vocabulary covers every neighbouring finger pair a piece might ask for — 0-1, 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 — half-step or whole-step, on all four strings, not just the one combination you happen to practise most.
Try it
Try
Take the 1-2 trill above at a slow, deliberate 50 BPM, fingers only, no bow. Once it's even, add the bow. Then speed the metronome up gradually — eighths, then sixteenths — stopping the moment it turns uneven rather than blurry-fast. Repeat with the 2-3 pair on a different string.
The usual mistake
Chasing speed before evenness. A fast, uneven trill sounds worse than a slow, perfectly even one — and forcing speed early almost always means forcing tension into the hand, which caps your real ceiling later.